Mace Build Part IV: Flanges

After preparing the center shaft of the mace, the next step was to cut and prepare flanges. The task of cutting flanges appeared to be straight forward. Both the horizontal band saw and the abrasive cut-off saw can be adjusted to miter or cut angles. For the English flanged mace, the flange angle was 45° at the top of the mace, followed by a flat tab, and finally angle back down to the shaft at 25°.

Initially both angles appeared well within the range of the tools. However, due to the mitering adjustment mechanism and the necessary clamping to hold the material solid — 25 degrees really needed to be 65&deg. Some metal cut-off saws allow you to miter +/- 45° but the one I have does not. Given the limit, the cutting options for half of the flange were reduced. Precision cuts were out.

For the shallow angle, the cut had to be made either using a hand-held tool using a cut-off wheel or using a plasma cutter. I know my limits with cut-off tools. Even using a dremel to accurately cut soft, small materials usually leads to scarred, mangled cuts. So the plasma cutter was in and the cut-off wheel was out. Who wouldn’t choose super heated ionized gas over tossing a few measly sparks?

I understand most individuals do not have access to a plasma cutter. If you do, make certain you are trained on its use and utilize all necessary safety equipment. Anything capable of slicing through metal like butter will not pause when it hits flesh. If you are in doubt, get a knowledgeable individual to assist or use a different tool.

In skilled hands, a plasma cutter can produce surprisingly accurate, defect free cuts. In my hands, the cuts are not precise, straight, or anything close to approaching defect free. My experience is limited to rough cuts and I don’t regularly use the tool. In hindsight, I should have made a jig and used a stand-off roller guide. Maybe next time.

Flanges, Rough Cut

Obviously, rough is the right word for the cuts. To minimize the number of cuts made and maximize my use of material, each cut was used to produce two flanges. This was accomplished by first cutting the 45° angle on the band saw, followed by the 25° cut with the plasma cutter and finally making the second 45° cut on the band saw once again.

In short order, six flanges were mocked up but needed to be cleaned up. In addition to being slightly off on the overall angle, the cuts had rotational errors. Basically, I didn’t hold a perfect 90° perpendicular angle as I made the cuts so the flanges had a face angle that varied across each of the three cuts. Pretty is not one of my primary motivators in this projects but the resulting flanges were far below my initial expectations.

I wanted more uniform flanges and absolutely wanted to get rid of the jagged aftermath of the plasma cuts. For the cleanup, a 4 1/2 inch hand held grinder was used. Aligning the stock bottom and the front 45° surfaces, I mounted three flanges at a time in a vise and gradually reduced the rough cuts. To avoid over grinding, I continually mixed up the 6 flanges into different lots of 3 and gradually ground them even and flat. Time consuming but well worth the extra effort.

Flanges, Ground

I expected to hit several hiccups in this project. I did not expect the flanges to be one of them. My appreciation for skilled metal workers continues to grow. Metal fabricators produce amazing results. The amount of technical knowledge and skill they uses without thought is truly astonishing. Metal work is an art form. I cannot fathom attempting even this simple fabrication without modern tools. Imagine how difficult the process would have been in the medieval ages in terms of time, labor and frustration. I no longer question the apprenticeships in the craft.

Plan B

Somewhere amid the grinding on the tapered flanges, I took a break and realized I had extra flange and shaft material. The frustration with the tapered flanges was acute. Looking at the already 45°’d end of the flange bar, I decided to cut a simpler flange producible by the band saw. I quickly chose to just make the flanges 45 degrees on each side with a 1/2 inch flat tab center.

For the Plan B flanges, the fabrication was trivial. The flanges required only minimal cleanup on the bench grinder and produced nice looking 2.25 inch flanges. For the second head, I chose to only use 4 flanges rather than six. Ninety degree angles are easier to align and clamp.

The shaft leftovers were a bit sparse. After removing the threaded ends and cutting the original shaft, slightly over 3 inches remained. For a test head, it was sufficient so I returned to the lathe to clean up the surface as I’d done previously. On a whim, I decided to add a detail on Plan B — just a couple of slight grooves on the haft end of the head. Alas, the one and only cutter bit for the lathe appears to have expired. Perhaps I’ll order in another bit or two for future efforts.

Weighing In

After running out of fabrication energy, I was online and talking with my buddy nails. He’s far more artistic than I am and has undertaken metal projects in the past. As we were discussing the project and the progress, he asked a pertinent question:

nails says, “How heavy is this thing going to be? metal can sneak up on you “

Excellent question. I figured I was light on even the 6 flanged projected compared to the original and knew the four flanged “Plan B” we was going to be significantly less. Busting out the postal scale, I weighed both prototypes in component form.

Six Flange Raw on Scale

The six flanges and metal shaft topped the scale at just over 1.5 pounds — 0.3 pounds heavier than the original influence. Heavier than I suspected. Credit to nails for identifying the sneaky power of metal. So what about Plan B?

Plan B on Scale

Plan B tipped the scale at 3/4’s of a pound with two less flanges and half the shaft length. Looking closely you can also see the aborted decorative grooves at the base of the shaft. I like them but need better tools and some guidance on lathing properly.

Considering everything I’ve encountered in the project. I’m pleased with the progress. Many more challenges are sure to arise before it is complete.

Fun Fact: My mace was Made In China. While polishing up the shaft for Plan B, I discovered the pipe was clearly stamped Made In China. I could have ground it out with significant effort. Instead, I’ll just leave it there. Thanks China! May my Chinese pipe fabricator enjoy his role playing. Thanks bud!

Next Up: Affixing Flanges

Building a Mace: Part III — Fab Begins

Today, I resumed working on my recreation of an English Flanged Mace. Previously, I analyzed the required materials for the build. Earlier in the week, I stopped into my local big box store and bought a foot of 1 inch Schedule 40 black steel pipe and a 3 foot length of 1″ x 0.25″ flat steel bar. Total cost $11. With some scrounging or a visit to a local metal supplier, similar items can be obtained for less cost.

After determining the materials, I realized I had not looked at the flanges in sufficient detail. I copied a couple of of the original photographs and started re-measuring for the final dimensions of my flanges. At the top of the mace, the flange is close to 45 degrees followed by a short head and a shallower, 25 degree, angle extending down toward the haft. I was surprised to see they were nice round numbers. I expected odd angles not precision. Both angles appeared easily within the range of the tools I had available.

Fabrication always has hiccups. I had just as many documenting the process. Digital camera – check. Batteries in the camera? Dead. Video camera check. Tripod? Uh, I should have thought of that earlier. Batteries are easier to get sorted than a tripod so at least I have a few photos.

Raw materials

Step 1: Core Reduction

Easing into the fabrication, I decided to cut the steel riser pipe down to size. As you saw, it was threaded on both ends. The first cut was to remove one threaded end. For the job, I used a horizontal band saw. An abrasive cut-off saw would work nearly as well but the band saw cuts cleaner and requires less grinding after the cut. Many suppliers will also cut pipe to size.

Pipe Resizing

The image shows the unused length of pipe being cut off by the bandsaw. The mace’s core is the portion clamped in the saw. Is there a technical term for the center, hollow core of a mace? If so let me know.

After cutting the pipe down to 6.5 inches, I touched up minor rough edges with a bench grinder and was left with a sticky problem. To affix the bar code, the fine folks over at the huge box store fond of orange paint, used 3 inch tape. Removing the tape was not a problem but the adhesive remained. I physically scraped the adhesive free as much as possible and then used brake cleaner as a solvent to remove the remainder. Make sure you cool the metal completely before using a solvent if you have just cut it!

Step 2: Pipe Cleaning

Black steel pipe is steel that has been oxidized (or otherwise coated) and often oiled to provide a minimal amount of corrosion resistance. For good adhesion, it is often necessary to clean the metal. MIG welding is hot enough the step is likely not necessary but if you are brazing, the metal needs to be quite clean. No matter the future step, I like clean metal.

To clean black pipe, degreasing is the first step. A simple solvent like brake cleaner is common and easy. Spray the pipe and wipe with a clean rag. Doing so twice is sufficient. Heavy duty kitchen cleaners and hot water can also be used.

Removing the black oxide is optional. I decided to remove it. Black oxide is a light surface level oxidation — a black rust. It can be removed chemically with acids or mechanically. Either method works well. I mounted my pipe in a metal lathe and used strips of emery cloth to sand it down.

Shaft Cleanup

The difference between the raw material and the cleaned product are obvious. If you are aiming for a very polished final product, continue to clean, polish and refine the pipe until it meets your standards. I have no intention to produce something pretty. I just want a rough approximation that is sturdy.

Hint: If you are like me an can only fabricate a few elements at a time, use a light dusting of WD-40 to keep the cleaned metal from rusting. Its easy to clean off.

Next Up: Flange Construction

Mace Build – Part II: Material Sourcing

From Shawn’s original description:

This large mace is 6.0 to 7.5cm wide with a head 8.7cm high. It is 16.5 cm tall overall. The haft hole is 2.5cm. The neck is 4.5mm thick. The mace is missing its cap or finial at the top. It has 6 flanges, or wings, which are forged to a single piece of metal which has been wrapped around the iron neck and copper braised to it. The neck is hollow and is broken at the bottom. It was mounted on the end of a long wooden haft. There are still remnants of the haft inside the neck. The flanges are 8.6 cm long, 2.5cm high and 6.5-8mm thick (tapering to 4.5-6mm). It is 0.55kg (1.2 lbs). It is made of iron.

Overview

Due to the United States failure to convert to the Metric system, I needed to determine measurements in inches to match up as closely as possibly with common steel stock materials. For reference, there are 2.54 centimeters per inch and 25.4 millimeters per inch. For my purposes, there are two major elements of the build – the center section and the flanges. The haft is an open question I’ll touch on briefly.

The Core

For the center, the original haft hole is 2.5cm – just under 1 inch internal diameter. In addition, the neck has 4.5mm wall thickness or 0.177 inches. Since I’ll be buying stock materials, the outer diameter should be 1 inch plus 2 * the wall thickness or approximately 1.354 inches. Steel tubing with a 1 inch inner diameter and an outer diameter somewhere between 1 5/6 inches to 1 3/8 inches would work nicely.

Oddly enough, ANSI Schedule 40 steel pipe is a very close match – one inch pipe has an outer diameter of 1.32 inches and an inner diameter of 1.05 inches. The wall thickness is slightly undersized at 0.13 inch. Considering I’m fabricating from steel, not iron, the undersized wall thickness should be fine. Schedule 40 piping can be found in nearly any home improvement store making it easy to obtain. If you are crazy enough to be following along, I’ll be using a MIG welder so choose “black pipe” not galvanized. The head of the original mace is listed at 16.5 cm or 6.5 inches.

Flanges

For the flanges, steel bar stock appears to be the most commonly available choice. The original had 2.5cm high flanges. Once again, this is easy – 1” bar stock is very common and available from nearly every home improvement center or metal supplier. Each flange is listed as 8.6cm long or 3.38 inches. Call it 3 3/8” and multiply by six equally spaced flanges – about 19 ¼ inches of raw stock. Thickness is a bit more difficult to determine due to wear and deterioration. The original is 6.5-8mm thick tapering down to 4.5-6mm. Maximal thickness is 0.255 – 0.314 inches (¼ down to 5/16 of an inch). Minimal thickness is 0.117 to 0.236 inches. Quarter inch bar stock is available everywhere but generally not available in 5/16ths of an inch – the next increment is usually 3/8 (0.375) inches. For a first attempt, 1 x 1/4” will work nicely.

Due to slightly undersized source materials, I was originally worried about the head of the mace being too light. Rolled steel is nearly identical iron in terms of weight. So the head will be a tad lighter than the original. For a prototype, commonly available materials make sense – cheap and common overcome all else. I’ll live with a little less mass in the head.

Haft

The haft raises more questions. Most of the common reproductions utilize a steel shaft rather than wood. I prefer wood because I like the look and wood was likely the most common haft material employed. Like raw iron, wood degrades quickly so historical evidence is sparse from what I’ve found in my minimal research. In the Medieval Age, wood was very common in England. Exactly what species is another project I need to undertake but for the first attempt, I’m going to use either hickory or oak.

Both are reasonably priced and can be found in dowel form. Considering the head will have a 1 inch internal diameter, a 1 inch dowel is going to be used for the haft. No significant work involved. Length is another lingering question but the reproductions seem to range in the 18-21” range overall. I’ll start with a longer version and cut it down if needed. I’ll likely start with oak since its commonly available but other wood species like hickory would be a better modern choice.

Build a Mace? Why not!

The fun thing about free time is you have the time to consider odd things to do. I’ve been doing a bit of metal fabrication at work. Welding, cutting and mangling of steel can be very therapeutic. If you screw up, you chop some off and start over in the worst case. Mostly you just chop off the offending bits and try again.

I’m not about to attempt to cast metal into a mold. Yet I was thinking a medieval weapon…fun way to extend my skills. A mace seemed a reasonable weapon — simple yet complicated. Much easier with modern tools. I’m not aiming for historical accuracy just a project for fun.

You can buy a “mace” online. Ranging from complete crap to obviously modern. I could buy one but I want it to mean something just in case gnomes invade my basement. I want a wooden shaft and an iron head.

After a slight amount of research, I found inspiration. Historical photos, measurements and descriptions. Not some hack like me selling something to tourists. The images are inspiring.

I settled on the English Flanged Mace circa 1300.

Visit Shawn’s amazing site for more information.

The beauty of the weapon is in its simplicity. The head elements can easily be imitated as can the haft. I’m not convinced I’m up to the challenge but a hand built reproduction is going to be much more interesting than a cheap replica.

Hello plasma cutter! Let’s carve some metal. Wish me luck!

Prep Work In Fluid Form

I admit to being easily distracted. There was a post on one of the RPG Bloggers member sites that was focused on brewing. I didn’t bookmark it and cannot seem to find it in the flood of creativity. Suffice to say I was inspired. Coupled with a 3 month window before our Spring Convergence, I did a bit of out of the box preparation.

I did have source material handy as you can see. I waffled a lot before settling on an English style ale. Preparation involves so many choices. I haven’t brewed a batch in several years. Should be fun to see how it turns out. Now back to the game prep… until bottling.

Update 01/22/2010:

Wort transferred from the primary fermenter into the secondary. As always, the initial product doesn’t look that appetizing.

Mmm, Hops